We left our hotel in Honolulu at 6:30 a.m. and were dropped off at our “hotel” in Christchurch by a jolly taxi driver at 4:30 a.m. the next day….not accounting for any time changes. But we made it, no one broke down or had a fit, and Milo is currently taking a very long nap while Jeremiah’s pacing the apartment waiting for him to wake up so we can go explore.
Category Archives: Day hikes NZ
Kauai Estate Coffee

This 3400 acre estate has a great tasting room and a well-produced video on coffee growing and processing where we got our coffee fix (for free!). It takes quite the processing to clean, sort and roast the stuff. I guess the pest control is minimal, and it makes up for the trouble in processing hassle. Milo’s page has an absolutely adorable picture of him in the tasting room.

The plantation was converted from sugar to coffee in 1987, and they grow 5 main varieties of coffee. These ones have yellow cherries when ripe, instead of red. Every 4-7 years the plants are cut back severely, but no pruning besides that. They’re harvested with a mechanical blueberry harvester. They’re all drip irrigated. Very impressive. It’d be fun to be part of an estate team like that.
It RAINS in the tropical rain forest

The temperature dropped at least ten degrees from the sunny ocean front as we drove up into the tropical rainforest. Philodendron crawl up smooth tree trunks, ferns smother the steepest slopes, and trees produce fruit all year round.
Hawaiian Botanical Garden

We checked out a garden/arboretum on the south shore of Kauai, but lucky for Jeremiah their main area cost $45 per person to enter, so cheap Molly contented herself with the impressive plantings around the gift shop. This is plumeria, whose name I know from Bath and Bodyworks lotions, but whose real scent is beyond description sweet.
Milo at the beach

Everywhere we go, I’m obsessed with the geological history. These low beach cliffs are “calcified sand dunes,” dunes that got rained on, cemented together, and are now being eroded again. I picked up a neat petrified sand tunnel of some ancient ocean creature and the customs officials in NZ let me keep it.

The post there declares that the life guard is on duty. “On Duty” is taken much more lightly here than in NY! Hey, it’s island life, people aren’t so up tight as at home.
Kauai, Hawaii for the first few days in August
From Alaska to Hawaii….we’re still in the United States but it doesn’t feel like it. All the names on the map are unpronounceable. The Hawaiian language only had 13 letters, 5 of them vowels, but they really like those vowels. My English eyes don’t read 4-5 vowels strung together, punctuated by apostrophes.

We crashed at a hotel in Honolulu the first night in Hawaii, then took an early flight to Kauai, rented a car, and drove to up the edge of the Wimea valley. We had booked two nights at a hostel, “Camp Slogget,” a YWCA camp, and when we arrived it was completely deserted. A note on the door urged us to call the caretaker, but the pay phone was out of order and there’s not cell reception (no wifi either). So us three had a 50 person bunk house all to ourselves….and the Hawaiian roosters who thought 3 a.m. was sunrise.

The mountains here are sharp, steep, and volcanic, a contrast to the glacier-carved steep ones in Alaska that were based on slate rock that was formed under a tropical ocean eons ago. It’s fascinating to think about how the molecular structure of the rock determines, along with erosion, how our world looks.

Entropy, entropy. The whole world is constantly getting worn down, eroded, and less orderly. I don’t notice it so much in NY, where our soils and rocks are slathered in vegetation. Hawaii is surprisingly dry in August, at least in the lowlands, and the red volcanic rock of the Wimea canyon is starkly exposed, dribbling down into the valley.

Good thing for Hawaii that the mountains push up air, creating clouds and rain on the mountains. Up high is thick tangled rainforest, enjoying the highest average annual rainfall on earth.
Anchorage airport, July 30th
July 29th, last hike in Kenai

Mark and Maria’s friend Dale has survived a genuine grizzly bear attack and has lived in Alaska all his life, so they enlisted him to take us on a hike of “Slaughter Gulch,” a nice trail which is not mentioned in any of the hiking guides. The path, which is not in a gulch at all, quickly climbs to above the treeline with almost continuous views of the Kenai River at Cooper Landing. Dale didn’t know what gave the trail such a morbid name….but it’s Alaska, we could let our imaginations run wild.

Here’s what these mountains look like from the top—like the path could wander over one peak, then the next, then the next, meandering over the soft low vegetation, inviting you to explore the next mountain.

Milo was here at the top of Slaughter Gulch too, sleeping in the warmth of the backpack. We asked Dale, the friend who hiked with us, what happened to give the mountain such a morbid name, but he didn’t know the history.
July 28th, Tsalteshi trails run
July 28th, Meeting Cousin John Harro

Poppop told us that my dad’s cousin John Harro (my great Uncle Lou’s son) lives in Soldotna, Alaska. We could be moving to Timbuktu and Poppop would have a contact there! John and his wife Denise moved a couple years ago and we couldn’t look up their local number, but one call to Poppop did the trick. He got John’s cell number from his mother in Idaho, and John called us that same evening, inviting us to his house for dinner. We had a lovely time, making pizzas in their outdoor oven and hearing about skiing, hiking and hunting in Alaska. Before we knew it, we were yawning and our watches read 10 pm.















