
“Legend has it that Maui used the Kaikoura Peninsula as a foothold to brace himself when he fished the North Island out of the sea.”
The DOC sign gives a little enlightenment regarding the gruesome-looking head-fisher. Not quite sure where the head bit comes in, actually….. “Kaikoura” means “eat crayfish,” and the peninsula with its rocky shallows has long been a Maori food gathering site. We spent a weekend there recently with a group of friends who were attempting to do likewise, but the murky water kept most of the crays safe. Paua are almost immobile, however, so they got a fair number of them.

Our friend Mark’s 30th birthday was the occasion for the trip–hunting buddies plus their “partners.” Here, “partners” is the generic blanket term for spouses, fiances, girlfriends/boyfriends, and all other manner of domestic arrangements. It’s not one I’ve adopted. I think of another American friend whose husband tried the term out on her. “I’m not your PARTNER!” she exclaimed. “I’m your WIFE.”

In times gone by, Kaikoura was also a whaling outpost, and I don’t doubt that the seals were hunted too. Not these days!

I’m not sure who likes these warped mudstones and tidal pools more, Milo or me. He surprised me by pushing his finger boldly into a sea anemone’s mouth. I’m sure the anemone was shocked too.