Swiss Cheese Landscape

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Mt Owen is the highest mountain in the Kahurangi National Park, but that's not why it's been on my "must explore" list.  It is featured in the South Island weekend tramps book with alluring photos of crazy funky rocky moonscapes such as these.  My friend Laura lives near Nelson, the nearest city to the Kahurangi, so a few months ago we cooked up this scheme for the husbands to stay with the kids for the weekend, and for me to fly up on a Friday evening, then spend the next three days hiking, returning to Christchurch Monday night.  I'll say this, flying for 45 minutes beats the 5.5 hour drive all hollow, even when you take into account airport lead times.

Mt Owen is the highest mountain in the Kahurangi National Park, but that’s not why it’s been on my “must explore” list. It is featured in the South Island weekend tramps book with alluring photos of crazy funky rocky moonscapes such as these. My friend Laura lives near Nelson, the nearest city to the Kahurangi, so a few months ago we cooked up this scheme for the husbands to stay with the kids for the weekend, and for me to fly up on a Friday evening, then spend the next three days hiking, returning to Christchurch Monday night. I’ll say this, flying for 45 minutes beats the 5.5 hour drive all hollow, even when you take into account airport lead times.

The walk starts out through native bush, climbing to convenient clearings for lunch, then back into a mature beech forest buzzing with yellow jackets.  Then all of a sudden you drop into a valley and turn a corner and walk straight into Dr. Suess' snide bush, with these crazy-looking trees that normally don't grow on the south island.  They are remnants of what used to grow here, before the last glaciation wiped them all out 10,000 years ago....except for this couple acre patch in the crook of the mountain arm that got missed by the scouring ice.  There are mallow trees too, "hoheri," with white blossoms and jaggety-edged leaves.

The walk starts out through native bush, climbing to convenient clearings for lunch, then back into a mature beech forest buzzing with yellow jackets. Then all of a sudden you drop into a valley and turn a corner and walk straight into Dr. Suess’ snide bush, with these crazy-looking trees that normally don’t grow on the south island. Dracophyllum, a genus of plants that share a family with blueberries, of all things.  These ones are remnants of what used to grow here, before the last glaciation wiped them all out 10,000 years ago….except for this couple acre patch in the crook of the mountain arm that got missed by the scouring ice. There are mallow trees too, “hoheri,” with white blossoms and jaggety-edged leaves.

The 12 bunk hut sits just past the ancient plant remnants, in the valley around the corner from where this photo was taken.  I wish I had gotten a photo of the hut group--they were a varied and amiable bunch, thoroughly enjoyable but without a group photo I won't bore you with the details.  From the hut upward was all grassy and open terrain.

The 12 bunk hut sits just past the ancient plant remnants, in the valley around the corner from where this photo was taken. I wish I had gotten a photo of the hut group–they were a varied and amiable bunch, thoroughly enjoyable but without a group photo I won’t bore you with the details. From the hut upward was all grassy and open terrain.

We spent the night in the hut, then set out for the summit the next morning.  Part way up the landscape opens out to a big grassy plateau dotted with a few tarns.  They were tempting for a swim, but despite the clear water the bottoms are probably a foot of loose sphagnum muck.  We passed.

We spent the night in the hut, then set out for the summit the next morning. Part way up the landscape opens out to a big grassy plateau dotted with a few tarns. They were tempting for a swim, but despite the clear water the bottoms are probably a foot of loose sphagnum muck. We passed.

But we did stop to oogle the alpine swamp plants, and discovered these cute little sundews.  A different species than the Adirondack ones, but a friendly familiar face nonetheless.

But we did stop to oogle the alpine swamp plants, and discovered these cute little sundews. A different species than the Adirondack ones, but a friendly familiar face nonetheless.

No swim, but for some reason the idea of doing a cartwheel is this surreal landscape tickled my fancy.  So with no daily agenda and no hurry, we stopped to play.  Actually, one of the nice things about the hike was the total lack of rush.  We could have reached the hut faster (DOC's guideline time was 6 hours, and we weren't much ahead of that), but why hurry?  We were there to enjoy the place, so we enjoyed it with leisure.

No swim, but for some reason the idea of doing a cartwheel in this surreal landscape tickled my fancy. So with no daily agenda and no hurry, we stopped to play. Actually, one of the nice things about the hike was the total lack of rush. We could have reached the hut faster (DOC’s guideline time was 6 hours, and we weren’t much ahead of that), but why hurry? We were there to enjoy the place, so we enjoyed it with leisure.

I describe Mt Owen to Kiwis as "an alpine Castle Hill," but the limestone must be of a different breed because it erodes not to smooth friendly curves like those at Castle Hill, but to these bizarre finger-scraped points.  A knowledgeable woman (alright, a bit know-it-all, to tell truth) at the hut described this limestone.  She said it's so ancient that it was formed before there were even shell fish in the oceans, so rather than the more common shell-fish-corpses-turned-stone, this stone is made of the carcasses of one-celled organisms.  Then it was squeezed and heated and metamorphosized to something akin to a soft marble.   Anyway, it's soft enough for running water to sculpt.

I describe Mt Owen to Kiwis as “an alpine Castle Hill,” but the limestone must be of a different breed because it erodes not to smooth friendly curves like those at Castle Hill, but to these bizarre finger-scraped points. A knowledgeable woman (alright, a bit know-it-all, to tell truth) at the hut described this limestone. She said it’s so ancient that it was formed before there were even shell fish in the oceans, so rather than the more common shell-fish-corpses-turned-stone, this stone is made of the carcasses of one-celled organisms. Then it was squeezed and heated and metamorphosized to something akin to a soft marble. Anyway, it’s soft enough for running water to sculpt.

In many places the water had delved deep crevasses into the rock, leading us into a discussion of the subtle differences between an alpine creVASSE and a bodily CREvice.  But I digress....which we did many times over the weekend.

In many places the water had delved deep crevasses into the rock, leading us into a discussion of the subtle differences between an alpine creVASSE and a bodily CREvice. But I digress….which we did many times over the weekend.

Here's the Swiss Cheese Landscape, dotted with holes.  No surface streams grace these highlands, they're all subterranean, channeling rain water down, down, down into the depths of the mountain.

Here’s the Swiss Cheese Landscape, dotted with holes. No surface streams grace these highlands, they’re all subterranean, channeling rain water down, down, down into the depths of the mountain.  The track guides caution to stick to the track in snow and don’t attempt it in poor visibility.  I can see why.

The stream stays underground for the whole height of the mountain, then emerges in a surprisingly vigorous flow from a still pool near the bottom.  It's cold!

The stream stays underground for the whole height of the mountain, then emerges in a surprisingly vigorous flow from a still pool near the bottom. It’s cold!

Laura didn't actually fall in this hole, we staged this one kicking the bottom to make sure it was solid enough to stand.  She looks like a gopher!

Laura didn’t actually fall in this hole, we staged this one kicking the bottom to make sure it was solid enough to stand. She looks like a gopher!

The view from Mt Owen towards the northwest (looking into the Kahurangi park) is refreshingly green.

The view from Mt Owen towards the northwest (looking into the Kahurangi park) is refreshingly green.

At the top, surveying our domain.  It's good to live in New Zealand.

At the top, surveying our domain. It’s good to live in New Zealand.

The misty clouds started skimming across the top while we ate lunch, but it just took us a little way on the return in the lee of the hill to warm up again.

The misty clouds started skimming across the top while we ate lunch, but it just took us a little way on the return in the lee of the hill to warm up again.

The scenery was awesome, the weather was impeccable....but the highlight was three solid days of uninterrupted girl talk.  Laura's kids are 5 and 3, while mine are 4 and 1.  We each have husbands.  We're interested in what makes people tick.  The conversation was rich.  What if Milo decides he's interested in marijuana when he gets older?  We know what we'll do.  Is it bad for your kids to move them during their primary school years?  Not sure, but we considered all the angles.  One of my work colleagues just accused me of being overly talkative, "yip yip yip," she said with a grin.  Well, we yip yapped the days away, and we feel all the more whole and complete as women and mothers because of it.

The scenery was awesome, the weather was impeccable….but the highlight was three solid days of uninterrupted girl talk. Laura’s kids are 5 and 3, while mine are 4 and 1. We each have husbands. We’re interested in what makes people tick. The conversation was rich. What if Milo decides he’s interested in marijuana when he gets older? We debated what we’ll do. Is it bad for your kids to move them during their primary school years? Not sure, but we considered all the angles. One of my work colleagues just accused me of being overly talkative; “yip yip yip,” she said with a grin. Well, we yip yapped the days away, and we feel all the more whole and complete as women and mothers because of it.

All play and no work

When we were back in the States this past time we realized that our blog gives you folks a bit of a skewed view of New Zealand life.  We only put the fun bits up, generally speaking, particularly trips, leaving some of our family wondering if we ever went to work.

We do work, believe it or not, but we assume most people aren’t that interested in the details.  Particularly, as you’ll see, when those details aren’t overly photogenic.

So what we thought we’d do this time is give you some little photos of daily life, mid-week.  Minus the kiddy melt-downs, which usually happen at least once a day.

Jeremiah is a structural engineer, which mostly means sitting at a desk in front of a computer crunching numbers.  The numbers turn into fancy stuff like rebar reinforcing, as pictured here, which no one ever sees because they get covered with concrete.  And if the job is done right, the bridge holds up during the next earthquake.

Jeremiah is a structural engineer, which mostly means sitting at a desk in front of a computer crunching numbers. The numbers turn into fancy stuff like rebar reinforcing, as pictured here, which no one ever sees because they get covered with concrete. And if the job is done right, the bridge holds up during the next earthquake.

Super duper high-vis orange!  Health and safety has made inroads into NZ industries because the country has a lousy track record littered with worker accidents.  The government is trying to shift the "she'll be 'right" attitude by plastering the workforce in neon orange and yellow.  Jeremiah's the closest orange worker, in a rare visit outside the confines of the office.

Super duper high-vis orange! Health and safety has made inroads into NZ industries because the country has a lousy track record littered with worker accidents. The government is trying to shift the “she’ll be ‘right” attitude by plastering the workforce in neon orange and yellow. Jeremiah’s the closest orange worker, in a rare visit outside the confines of the office.

Molly works at a plant factory, 3 days a week.  The floor space at this site is 20,000 square meters (200,000 sq ft) and the site is planned to triple to bring their other local greenhouses under the same roof.  I wear high-vis too, but my yellow vest is tarnished with peat stains.  Part of my job is soilless mix formulation and testing.  "Making mudpies," as my colleagues say.

Molly works at a plant factory, 3 days a week. The floor space at this site is 20,000 square meters (200,000 sq ft) and the site is planned to triple to bring their other local greenhouses under the same roof. I wear high-vis too, but my yellow vest is tarnished with peat stains. Part of my job is soilless mix formulation and testing. “Making mudpies,” as my colleagues say.

When I'm not making mud pies, I'm staring at diseases.  This one made the poppy go all nasty.  Actually, it's amazing the number of high quality plants the growing team churns out, the pretties just don't make it onto my desk or into my photo gallery.

When I’m not making mud pies, I’m staring at diseases. This one made the poppy go all nasty. Actually, it’s amazing the number of high quality plants the growing team churns out, the pretties just don’t make it onto my desk or into my photo gallery.

When I'm working, Milo is at a little Montessori preschool, where he has a good time playing with his buddy Cody.  Naomi goes to Justine's house, where she waves me off in the morning with a "Bbbeye" and a smile.

When I’m working, Milo is at a little Montessori preschool, where he has a good time playing with his buddy Cody. Naomi goes to Justine’s house, where she waves me off in the morning with a “Bbbeye” and a smile.

When I'm home with the kids we read....

When I’m home with the kids we read….

We clean....

We clean….

We cook...

We cook…

We teach kind behavior (!)....

We teach kind behavior (!)….

We go the park...(Naomi tried hard to ride Milo's bike)

We go to the park…(Naomi tried hard to ride Milo’s bike)

We nap...with our toy guns?!

We nap…with our toy guns?!

We use the toilet...

We use the toilet…

We grow garden veggies....

We grow garden veggies….

And we play peekaboo!

And we play peekaboo!

"We" (that's We in the royal sense) operate a miniature brewery out of our kitchen.  Dubbed "Craggy Peaks Brewery," the actual brewery fills our humble home in the Canterbury plains with hoppy steam.

And sometimes “we” (that’s We in the royal sense) operate a miniature brewery out of our kitchen. Dubbed “Craggy Peaks Brewery,” the actual brewery fills our humble home in the Canterbury plains with hoppy steam.

Craggy Peaks has its own label, albeit a hand made one.  In the next version I think the tahr should be waggling its tongue at the beer-drinking hunter.

Craggy Peaks has its own label, albeit a hand made one. In the next version I think the tahr should be waggling its tongue at the beer-slurping hunter.

I like the snow….

"I like snow," Milo said, "but I like summer better."  Right you are, buddy.   We thought NY would feel shockingly cold, being that we haven't felt cold like that (10 degrees F this hiking day = -12 C) for three years.  It was cold, that was true, but not surprisingly so.  I guess it's another example of the Power of Expectations.  We expected it to be cold, and the weather fulfilled those expectations.  Here we are hiking Noonmark in Keene Valley, Adirondacks.

“I like snow,” Milo said, “but I like summer better.” Right you are, buddy.
We thought NY would feel shockingly cold, being that we haven’t felt cold like that (10 degrees F this hiking day = -12 C) for three years. It was cold, that was true, but not surprisingly so. I guess it’s another example of the Power of Expectations. We expected it to be cold, and the weather fulfilled those expectations. Here we are hiking Noonmark in Keene Valley, Adirondacks.

Of course, when the Shaw's house is this warm, unless you're hiking the cold outside is mostly just pretty scenery.  Milo decided clothes were an unnecessary luxury this afternoon.  And to tell truth, we decided that winter hiking wasn't for kids, and we left them with Nana in the balmy house for the day.

Of course, when the Shaw’s house is this warm, unless you’re hiking, the cold outside is mostly just pretty scenery. Milo decided clothes were an unnecessary luxury this afternoon. And to tell truth, we decided that winter hiking wasn’t for kids, and we left them with Nana in the balmy house for the day.

Here was our hiking crew for the day.  Eric (left) is now Missy's (center) husband.  Rachel, a bridesmaid from England, completed the group.

Here was our hiking crew for the day. Eric (left) is now Missy’s (center) husband. Rachel, a bridesmaid from England, completed the group.

When I wasn't behind the camera I was hugging birch trees.  In the summer I hardly notice them, but in the winter they're glorious, their white bark glowing with almost a pink color against the brilliant snow.  This is my favorite part of the Adirondack mountains in winter--that subalpine birch zone just below the altitude where the spruces take over.

When I wasn’t behind the camera I was hugging birch trees. In the summer I hardly notice them, but in the winter they’re glorious, their white bark glowing with almost a pink color against the brilliant snow. This is my favorite part of the Adirondack mountains in winter–that subalpine birch zone just below the altitude where the spruces take over.

Fresh snow on the spruces!  Snowshoe hare tracks crisscross under their bows, but I've never caught a glimpse of the creatures themselves.  This sunny day the intrepid birds were out chirping, but I went out on a snowshoe a couple days later while it was snowing and it was so silent that the crisp sprinkle of the flakes could be heard against the dried beech leaves.

Fresh snow on the spruces! Snowshoe hare tracks crisscross under their bows, but I’ve never caught a glimpse of the creatures themselves. This sunny day the intrepid birds were out chirping, but I went out on a snowshoe a couple days later while it was snowing and it was so silent that the crisp sprinkle of the flakes could be heard against the dried beech leaves.

We had a clear view from the top, before the next bit of weather rolled in from this side.

We had a clear view from the top, before the next bit of weather rolled in from this side.

Winter is fun an all, but that's not the reason we made the journey to the other side of the planet.  This trip was for family.  For Missy's wedding, first of all, and to renew friendships as well.  Papa (Jeremiah's dad) was really looking forward to taking Milo for a ride in his new toy.  Vintage 1965, he saw one in the Christchurch museum Antarctica display when they visited us.  Papa has a weakness for big machines, history, and good deals....I'm guessing buying this Tucker SnoCat fulfilled all three passions.  I'm not sure something can be a good deal if you don't need it....but he certainly likes it, as well as the attention it garners from passing motorists.

Winter is fun an all, but that’s not the reason we made the journey to the other side of the planet. This trip was for family. For Missy’s wedding, first of all, and to renew friendships as well. Papa (Jeremiah’s dad) was really looking forward to taking Milo for a ride in his new toy. Vintage 1965, he saw one in the Christchurch museum Antarctica display when they visited us. Papa has a weakness for big machines, history, and good deals….I’m guessing that buying this Tucker SnoCat fulfilled all three passions. I’m not sure something can be a good deal if you don’t need it….but he certainly likes it, as well as the attention it garners from passing motorists.

Another big machine.  Milo's an appreciative audience.

Another big machine, this one he does need for the business.  Milo’s an appreciative audience.

Nana likes her breakfast smoothies.  She chocks them full of healthy stuff, some yummy and some completely inedible.  The resulting brew is, to my taste, barely edible...it must be an acquired taste.  She made fruit ones for Milo and the rest of the gang, which were delicious.

Nana likes her breakfast smoothies. She chocks them full of healthy stuff, some yummy and some completely inedible. The resulting brew is, to my taste, barely edible…it must be an acquired taste. She made fruit ones for Milo and the rest of the gang, which were delicious.

Wedding day!  We dolled ourselves up and then stuck a tacky passifier in Naomi's mouth.  She was crabby and tired, so it was our ploy to buy silence.  It didn't work.  Omi and Abi helped out by playing with her upstairs.

Wedding day! We dolled ourselves up and then stuck a tacky passifier in Naomi’s mouth. She was crabby and tired, so it was our ploy to buy silence. It didn’t work. Omi and Abi helped out by playing with her upstairs.

There now, she's got what she needed on Abi's shoulder.

There now, she’s got what she needed on Abi’s shoulder.

When Abi relates to the kids, he gets right down at their level.  Naomi had a bit of a window-crank fetish, and unfortunately not all of them were stuck on securely.  I rescued one from the garbage where she had binned it, and Abi helped her put this one on and off again numerous times, all while showing due admiration for the lego man Milo had thrust under his nose.

When Abi relates to the kids, he gets right down at their level. Naomi had a bit of a window-crank fetish, and unfortunately not all of them were stuck on securely. I rescued one from the garbage where she had binned it, and Abi helped her put this one on and off again numerous times, all while showing due admiration for the lego man Milo had thrust under his nose.

Moriah is Jeremiah's younger sister.  Naomi shares a family resemblance, does she not?

Moriah is Jeremiah’s younger sister. Naomi shares a family resemblance, does she not?

"I have 13 cousins!" Milo tells everyone with an ear to spare.  Ben, Jeremiah's older brother, has 13 children.  Nathaniel and Elizabeth, some of the youngest, are the same age as Milo and Naomi.    Milo cited sledding with the cousins as the highlight of his America trip.

“I have 13 cousins!” Milo tells everyone with an ear to spare. Ben, Jeremiah’s older brother, has 13 children. Nathaniel and Elizabeth, some of the youngest, are the same age as Milo and Naomi.
Milo cited sledding with the cousins as the highlight of his America trip.

And here we are, headed back to New Zealand.  Unfortunately these good-natured grins were temporary.  30+ hours is a long time to be traveling, even when 15 of them were on a new Dreamliner model with individual entertainment stations.  The beautiful thing was that time doesn't stand still, as much as it may seem to, and eventually all things come to an end.  It was with much relief that we finally disembarked from the last plane in Christchurch.  It feels great to be back.

And here we are, headed back to New Zealand. Unfortunately these good-natured grins were temporary. 30+ hours is a long time to be traveling, even when 15 of them were on a new Dreamliner plane with individual entertainment stations. The beautiful thing was that time doesn’t stand still, as much as it may seem to, and eventually all things come to an end. It was with much relief that we finally disembarked from the last plane in Christchurch. It feels great to be back.

“I don’t feel any different being four”

Milo loves birthdays--what kid doesn't?  He's been angling for a digger cake for about 6 months now, and thankfully the one we made at Nana's house fulfilled the high expectations.  I asked him the night before his birthday what was going to be different when he turned 4.  There was a long pause for reflection.   "I'm going to eat my veggies," he pronounced.  I tried valiantly to swallow my skepticism.  Another long pause.  "And I'm going to give up my chewie" (passifer).  Wow, such serious 4th-year-resolutions!

Milo loves birthdays–what kid doesn’t? He’s been angling for a digger cake for about 6 months now, and I think the one we made at Nana’s house fulfilled the high expectations. I asked him the night before his birthday what was going to be different when he turned 4. There was a long pause for reflection. “I’m going to eat my veggies,” he pronounced. I tried valiantly to swallow my skepticism. Another long pause. “And I’m going to give up my chewie” (passifer). Wow, such serious 4th-year-resolutions!

The day after his birthday Milo was sitting eating breakfast when he said “You know, I don’t feel any bigger being four.”  Well now, I’m sure that’s true!  I tried to explain that the growth process is incremental, happening every day even when it’s not a big birthday….but I think it was lost on him.  Cake expectations: met.  Growth expectations: unmet.

 

Transported to winter

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We have a family wedding to attend this week in NY, so we gritted our teeth and endured a 13 hour flight across the pacific. Turns out that the eventful part was yet to come. Ten minutes out of Los Angeles the crew smelled smoke and we made an emergency landing in a little regional airport. No drama really just 6 hours of waiting for a new plane.

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Of course we missed our connecting flight in Washington, necessitating an overnight hotel stay. Might as well take a bath!

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We bundled our babes up and headed out to play. Rosy cold cheeks--it's single digit cold.

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The snowy world is almost colorless, muted greys, blacks and of course pure white

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Blueberries for Naomi

Blueberries, now that's a taste of summer!  Milo thinks so too.

Blueberries, now that’s a taste of summer! Milo thinks so too.

Have you ever read the book "blueberries for Sal?"  The kid is eating blueberries out of her mom's bucket so fast that her mom has to admonish her, tell her she has to pick her own.  That's how Naomi was on her first day blueberry picking.  She got the hang of picking her own quickly!

Have you ever read the book “blueberries for Sal?” The kid is eating blueberries out of her mom’s bucket so fast that her mom has to admonish her, tell her she has to pick her own. That’s how Naomi was on her first day blueberry picking. She got the hang of picking her own quickly!

Tour of Canterbury

Last week our Alaska friends Mark and Maria paid us a visit.  Here we are, group giggles!  We spent the week showing them some of our favorite spots in Canterbury.  Weather cooperated perfectly, so we really got see a lot.

Last week our Alaska friends Mark and Maria paid us a visit. Here we are, group giggles! We spent the week showing them some of our favorite spots in Canterbury. Weather cooperated perfectly, so we really got see a lot.

First day we  walked out to Godley Head where the old WWII bunkers still remain.  This narrow view would have been the window through which recruits spent dreary hours anxiously scanning the approach to the Lyttleton harbor.  It was a glorious day to be out walking, but I imagine that in blowing spitting rain these camouflaged hidey holes weren't so pleasant.

First day we walked out to Godley Head where the old WWII bunkers still remain. This narrow view would have been the window through which recruits spent dreary hours anxiously scanning the approach to the Lyttleton harbor. It was a glorious day to be out walking, but I imagine that in blowing spitting rain these camouflaged hidey holes weren’t so pleasant.

Surveying the world.

Surveying the world.

Milo checks out the barren bunker interior, with the Banks Peninsula beyond.

Milo checks out the barren bunker interior, with the Banks Peninsula beyond.

Mark spent a bit of time soaking up the relaxed and friendly atmosphere in NZ.  I think he's saying saying "Wowzers, l LIKE this."

Mark spent a bit of time soaking up the relaxed and friendly atmosphere in NZ. I think he’s saying saying “Wowzers, l LIKE this.”

Another day we headed up to Arthur's Pass.  These purple flowers seemed to be around the edge of a dried lake, a beautiful mountain valley accessible and irresistible to us tourists!

Another day we headed up to Arthur’s Pass. These purple flowers seemed to be around the edge of a dried lake, a beautiful mountain valley accessible and irresistible to us tourists!

Castle Hill.  Any why not yell?

Castle Hill. Any why not yell?

Here's Milo in his King Seat.

Here’s Milo in his King Seat.

Just up the road from Castle Hill is a bit of the same limestone rock, this time carved into a cave by the resident stream.  Here's the caving crew--the boys.  Us women took the kids and sat sedately by the entrance stream, doling out strawberries and scooping kids out of the water.

Just up the road from Castle Hill is a bit of the same limestone rock, this time carved into a cave by the resident stream. Here’s the caving crew–the boys. Us women took the kids and sat sedately by the entrance stream, doling out strawberries and scooping kids out of the water.

We figured out that Mark and Jeremiah have the same personality type.  Perhaps that is why crawling through a dark, cold, wet cave sounded so appealing to them.  Mark loved it.

We figured out that Mark and Jeremiah have the same personality type. Perhaps that is why crawling through a dark, cold, wet cave sounded so appealing to them. Mark loved it.

Jeremiah loved it too, but he was also glad to emerge into the sun and thaw out his fingers.

Jeremiah loved it too, but he was also glad to emerge into the sun and thaw out his fingers.

Further up in the pass we stopped to putter along a nature trail, admiring the flora.

Further up in the pass we stopped to putter along a nature trail, admiring the flora.

Yet another day we headed out to Akaroa, stopping at Birdlings Flat on the way.

Yet another day we headed out to Akaroa, stopping at Birdlings Flat on the way.

The waves were surprisingly tame for this beach, but every so often one would still creep up to catch our feet.

The waves were surprisingly tame for this beach, but every so often one would still creep up to catch our feet.

One afternoon we took a ride up to Pegasus Bay Winery.  Wine is nice and all, but the REAL reason for the trip was to feed their pet eels.  If you bring along your kids, you can get fish scraps from the restaurant kitchen.  Then you meander down the manicured garden lawn to the edge of a shady pond bisected by a picturesque Japanese-style bridge.  You pause by the edge of the water, then the EELS start to appear.  In DROVES.  Silent, slimy, black, bold...the ultimate creepy creature.  I was holding Naomi and had to take care that an eel didn't sample her toe.  Not surprisingly (in retrospect), Molly was the only one truly interested in the eels.  Dear Reader, if you ever make it down to NZ, I'll make sure and take you there....oh, and we'll bring along the kids too.

One afternoon we took a ride up to Pegasus Bay Winery. Wine is nice and all, but the REAL reason for the trip was to feed their pet eels. If you bring along your kids, you can get fish scraps from the restaurant kitchen. Then you meander down the manicured garden lawn to the edge of a shady pond bisected by a picturesque Japanese-style bridge. You pause by the edge of the water, then the EELS start to appear. In DROVES. Silent, slimy, black, bold…the ultimate creepy creature. I was holding Naomi and had to take care that an eel didn’t sample her toe. Not surprisingly (in retrospect), Molly was the only one truly interested in the eels. Dear Reader, if you ever make it down to NZ, I’ll make sure and take you there….oh, and we’ll bring along the kids too.

Not sure what Naomi was demanding here, up in the garden safely out of reach from the eels, but her expression is so characteristic of her go-get-it personality.

Not sure what Naomi was demanding here, up in the garden safely out of reach from the eels, but her expression is so characteristic of her go-get-it personality.

Mark and Maria have moved on to tour some more of NZ by train before their return to Alaska.  Here's wishing you safe travels, delightful interactions with people, and food as delicious as a pb&j picnic lunch!

Mark and Maria have moved on to tour some more of NZ by train before their return to Alaska. Here’s wishing you safe travels, delightful interactions with people, and food as delicious as a pb&j picnic lunch!

Quiet in the woods

Miles upon miles of beech forest.  Quiet trail.   My own pace.  Space to think.   Cass trail in Arthur's Pass had all for me this past weekend.

Miles upon miles of beech forest. Quiet trail. My own pace. Space to think, and time in which to do it. Cass trail in Arthur’s Pass held all this last weekend.

Cass trail is usually hiked as a one-way, but since I was a solo tramper (that's right!  First night away from both kids since Naomi was born!) I just planned to walk in to Hamilton Hut one day and back out the same way the following day.

Cass trail is usually hiked as a one-way, but since I was a solo tramper (that’s right! First night away from both kids since Naomi was born!) I just planned to walk in to Hamilton Hut one day and back out the same way the following day.  I started (and ended) at the northern end, near Bealey Hut.

Weather on the way in had low cloud covering the mountaintops, with occasional mist making it down to ground level in the river valleys, but no actual rain.  Perfect conditions for photos.   This moss with the droopy heads is on a gnarled beech tree right next to the trail.

Weather on the way in had low cloud covering the mountaintops, with occasional mist making it down to ground level in the river valleys, but no actual rain. Perfect conditions for photos. This moss with the droopy heads is on a gnarled beech tree right next to the trail.

I haven't hiked with a light backpack (no child riding) for so long that I forgot how easy it can be to stop, drop the pack, dig out the camera or cooker for a cup of tea, heft it again, and resume walking.  Such flexibility.  The beeches are all draped with lichen, and I amused myself for a while trying to think up beer names for Jeremiah relating to this feature.  "Beech Beard Alehouse"?  "Treebeard's Grog"?

I haven’t hiked with a light backpack (no child riding) for so long that I forgot how easy it can be to stop, drop the pack, dig out the camera or cooker for a cup of tea, heft it again, and resume walking. Such flexibility. The beeches are all draped with lichen, and I amused myself for a while trying to think up beer/brewery names for Jeremiah relating to this feature. “Beech Beard Alehouse”? “Treebeard’s Grog”?

Even the understory beeches had the start of their beards growing.  Early on the trail cut through a pine plantation, and going from the airy light beech understory to the dark barren twilight under the pines felt sinister.  I was definitely glad to re-emerge into the friendly beech greenery.

Even the understory beeches had the start of their beards growing. Early on the trail cut through a pine plantation, and going from the airy light beech understory to the dark barren twilight under the pines felt sinister. I was definitely glad to re-emerge into the friendly beech greenery.

Baby beech leaves!  They're already getting nibbled, by a caterpillar I think.

Baby beech leaves! They’re already getting nibbled, by a caterpillar I think.

I expected this to be a wet-boot hike, but the river level was so low that my gaiters and new boots saw me through just vaguely damp.  The last two crossings were bridged, to my delight.  The hut had a photo of this river in flood, a nasty scary sight when it's between you and home.

I expected this to be a wet-boot hike, but the river level was so low that my gaiters and new boots saw me through just vaguely damp. The last two crossings were bridged, to my delight. The hut had a photo of this river in flood, a nasty scary sight when it’s between you and home.

I climbed a little bluff to look out over the Harper river valley.  My trail split off just above here, but the Te Araroa trail goes down that valley on its 3,000 kilometer trek from tip to tail of the south island.  It was grassy and looked little-used, but I could sense Bilbo's adventure-lust, the allure of the path that goes ever, ever on.

I climbed a little bluff to look out over the Harper river valley. My trail split off just above here, but the Te Araroa trail goes down that valley on its 3,000 kilometer trek from tip to tail of the south island. It was grassy and looked little-used, but I could sense Bilbo’s adventure-lust, the allure of the path that goes ever, ever on.

Here's Hamilton hut, well built on a shelf above the river.  I trotted up at 4:30 and was surprised to find no one else in residence.  Cass trail is less than 2 hours from Christchurch and while the weather wasn't stunning on Saturday, the weekend overall looked pretty decent.  I figured someone else would turn up later, but the evening wore on in eerie silence.

Here’s Hamilton hut, well built on a shelf above the river. I trotted up at 4:30 and was surprised to find no one else in residence. Cass trail is less than 2 hours from Christchurch and while the weather wasn’t stunning on Saturday, the weekend overall looked pretty decent. I figured someone else would turn up later, but the evening wore on in eerie silence.

Silence....until the thunder of a chopper boomed down the valley!  They landed right at the front door and POLICE piled out.  By a strange twist of fate, I even knew one of them.  Turns out they were looking for a missing tramper, a French woman named Celine, who was expected to return to her lodging to pick up her stuff but hadn't shown up.  They hardly stayed 5 minutes, just long enough to photograph the hut book (where trampers sign in and leave their intentions, along with comments varying in ripeness), and verify that no one was hiding under the bunks.  Silence again descended.

Silence….until the thunder of a chopper boomed down the valley! They landed right at the front door and POLICE piled out. By a strange twist of fate, I even knew one of them. Turns out they were looking for a missing tramper, a French woman named Celine, who was expected to return to her lodging to pick up her stuff but hadn’t shown up. They hardly stayed 5 minutes, just long enough to photograph the hut book (where trampers sign in and leave their intentions, along with comments varying in ripeness), and verify that no one was hiding under the bunks. Silence again descended.

It's strange, staying in a 30+ bunk hut alone.  I decided that as much as I enjoyed having the trail to myself, I'd like company in the evening.  I went to bed early, slept soundly, and woke when fully rested.  Wow, haven't done that in a while.

It’s strange, staying in a 20 bunk hut alone. I decided that as much as I enjoyed having the trail to myself, I’d like company in the evening. I went to bed early, slept soundly, and woke when fully rested. Wow, haven’t done that in a while.

There's a tussocky bit of trail where I ate lunch on the walk out, looking up at Mt. Bruce.  Clear walking, a beautiful sunny day, and if I continued on my trajectory homeward on the path I'd get there early enough to be responsible for dinner..... I decided to detour.  The wind was at my back down below but up on top the clouds were moving the opposite direction--maybe there'd be a bit of calm air in the change-over zone?  I'd have to climb the peak to find out.  Part way up were these funny kettle ponds full of clear water with very squishy bottoms.  No bathing for me, thanks.

There’s a tussocky bit of trail where I ate lunch on the walk out, looking up at Mt. Bruce. Clear walking, a beautiful sunny day, and if I continued on my trajectory homeward on the path I’d get there early enough to be responsible for dinner….. I decided to detour. The wind was at my back down below but up on top the clouds were moving the opposite direction–maybe there’d be a bit of calm air in the change-over zone? I’d have to climb the peak to find out. Part way up were these funny kettle ponds full of clear water with very squishy bottoms. No bathing for me, thanks.

Stunted alpine plants picking a meager living out of the scanty soil.

Stunted alpine plants picking a meager living out of the scanty soil.

Perched atop Mt. Bruce.  Down below is the Waimakariri river valley, and beyond that the snow still on the rest of the Southern Alps.  It was so refreshing to have no responsibility for any other person's well-being for a while.  If I wanted to stop and brew a cup of tea, or climb and extra peak, no one else's needs had to be considered.

Perched atop Mt. Bruce. Down below is the Waimakariri river valley, and beyond that the snow still on the rest of the Southern Alps. It was so refreshing to have no responsibility for any other person’s well-being for a little while. Stop any time to brew a cup of tea, air my tummy in the sun, or climb an extra peak–no one cared!

Pep and Shazam

When it comes to daring, there's nothing lacking here!  Naomi delights in climbing.  Here she is dancing on the play table and squealing in the glory of having conquered the challenge.  Milo, look out--you may be the biggest and fastest now, but your little sister will be constantly pushing into your wake.

When it comes to daring, there’s nothing lacking here! Naomi delights in climbing. Here she is dancing on the play table and squealing in the glory of having conquered the challenge. Milo, look out–you may be the biggest and fastest now, but your little sister will be constantly pushing into your wake.

"Faster, Ella!"  The danger of falling doesn't cross her mind, she's just loving the speed.

“Faster, Ella!” The danger of falling doesn’t cross her mind, she’s just loving the speed.

Until recently Naomi was pretty good natured about having certain items taken away, but that complacency has abruptly ended.  She had the white board marker yesterday (it stains!) and was making purple streaks on the carpet.  She threw a noisy fit when it was confiscated, so I set her in her high chair with the washable markets and a piece of drawing paper.  Boy, was she happy!

Until recently Naomi was pretty good natured about having certain items taken away, but that complacency has abruptly ended. She had the white board marker yesterday (it stains!) and was making purple streaks on the carpet. She threw a noisy fit when it was confiscated, so I set her in her high chair with the washable markets and a piece of drawing paper. Boy, was she thrilled!  I’d still classify her as a happy baby, but she’ll also screech in protest when something doesn’t go her way.  Nothing lackadaisical here–she’s full of pep and shazam. 

Hanmer hot springs

It's a long drive down from Richmond to Christchurch, and what better stopping point than Hanmer Springs, where entrepreneurial drive has turned the natural muddy sand-fly plagued hot springs into a kids' watery paradise.  To be honest, I'm not sure if these hot springs were originally muddy, but most don't live up to the fairy-tale imagination of pristine steaming water flowing abundantly between rock-lined stream banks.   We met Laura and her kids there for the day Saturday, and they returned with us for the weekend in Christchurch.

It’s a long drive down from Richmond to Christchurch, and what better stopping point than Hanmer Springs, where entrepreneurial drive has turned the natural muddy sand-fly plagued hot springs into a kids’ watery paradise. To be honest, I’m not sure if these hot springs were originally muddy, but most don’t live up to the fairy-tale imagination of pristine steaming water flowing abundantly between rock-lined stream banks. We met Laura and her kids there for the day Saturday, and they returned with us for the weekend in Christchurch.

I've been to Hanmer Springs before but completely missed the spray park.  When the cool wind got a bit brisk, we ducked back into the sheltered man-made stream, water a comfortable 35 degrees C (95 F).

I’ve been to Hanmer Springs before but completely missed the spray park. There’s Milo, sluicing down the slide on the right.  When the cool wind got a bit brisk, we ducked back into the sheltered man-made stream, water a comfortable 35 degrees C (95 F). 

Naomi really wanted to climb up those steps, but spent a moment considering the sprinkle-fall obstacle first.

Naomi really wanted to climb up those steps, but spent a moment considering the sprinkle-fall obstacle first.

Always bold, she made a dash through the water but got stopped by the pelting drops, stuck immobile.  Mommy to the rescue, and she conquered the steps to slosh down the slide.

Always bold, she made a dash through the water but got stopped by the pelting drops, immobilized. Mommy to the rescue (after a pause to snap a photo first).  She conquered the steps and sloshed down the slide. 

The kids loved this Tuatara slide (a kind of pre-historic NZ lizard).  You enter its mouth and come shooting out its tail--what more could a boy want?  Noah had the best faces upon exiting!

The kids loved this Tuatara slide (a kind of pre-historic NZ lizard). You enter its mouth and come shooting out its tail–what more could a boy want? Noah had the best faces upon exiting!

There's my beautiful baby!

There’s my beautiful baby!